Saturday, March 30, 2024
This morning we were up pretty early and packing for the Camino. It was so good to spend time with Gorka and Miren. They are great people, and Betty and the kids and I just had a great time visiting with them. We will miss them for sure.
I have had quite a lot of anxiety related to these first few moments on the Camino. Basically, they boiled down to a couple of things. First of all, I had this recurring thought that in the pilgrim’s office they would turn us away because we had River with us. Or at least I worried they would try to tell me I was crazy.
That fear turned out to be totally unfounded. The woman who attended us, Margarethe, was super nice, and she was great with the kids. She didn’t seemed bothered at all that we were doing this. I was so grateful I could have cried.
My second fear was that we wouldn’t be able to find a place to stay the night. The first place Margarethe recommended was the municipal albergue (hostel), which had been my plan all along. We ended up getting our own room with five beds in it. Alicia and River are going to share, and Ian and I will. Our accommodations are about as good as I could have hoped for.
My third biggest concern was the hike to Roncesvalles. We have wanted to do the Napoleonic route for a while, but it’s sixteen miles and really tough. I have worried for a long time about doing it, but wasn’t sure what the alternative would be.
Margarethe told us that at this time of year it’s impossible to get across that way. Even if it was open, which it’s not, it’s just too dangerous. So we will be taking the route through Valcarlos. But the second half of that way -- the toughest part of it -- is all along the highway, and she said she couldn’t really recommend it to us. So we are going to hike to Valcarlos (about seven miles) and then take a bus to Roncesvalles. It means our first day will be totally doable. And it’s Easter Sunday, so we will be in Roncesvalles with plenty of time to relax and worship.
The Lord really has provided the best possible first day for us.
In the afternoon we settled into our room and then walked to the store and got some food for dinner (yogurt and fruit) and lunch tomorrow (bocadillos). Then I took the kids on a sunset hike up to the citadel. It was amazing.
Now we are just trying to settle down so we can get an early start on the day tomorrow.