La Gran Aventura Day 99: Ian’s Inhaler and Trier

Tuesday, March 19, 2024

This morning we woke up with a problem. Ian has really been struggling with allergies since Holland. Veroniek had cats, and Andrew and Dasha have a dog. It’s his eyes and his nose and his asthma. I’ve been sleeping close to him to help him through the nights, but the problem this morning was that his rescue inhaler ran out. Yesterday I stopped by a pharmacy, but it’s a prescription med here. I called our doctor back home, but they can’t send a prescription overseas. Everyone was recommending that we take him to a clinic, but that takes time and is very expensive.

I hopped online to see if there was a walk-in clinic close to us, and an ad popped up for a service called Doctors SA. You punch in some information, and they said you could have an online visit in as little as ten minutes. It seemed too good to be true, but I went for it anyway, and in 10 minutes I was on a video call with a guy who looked like he was on vacation somewhere. We told him what we needed, and in five minutes we had a prescription sent by email. A bit later we went to the pharmacy and get his new inhaler. It was a tender mercy.

In the afternoon we went to the totem of Trier. It’s one of the oldest cities in Germany and there is a church there that claims to have the bones of the apostle Matthias, who replaced Judas after he died.

The scriptures teach us that he was with Christ from the beginning, but he was only called as an apostle after Judas betrayed Christ and hanged himself. He is important to us because his calling as an apostle teaches that Christ clearly established a church, with a leadership and organization that was intended to continue after His death. Tradition says that Matthias preached the gospel in Aethiopia -- which could be modern-day Georgia or Northern Africa. Some traditions say he was stoned in Jerusalem, others that he died of old age, and others that he was beheaded by an axe. That’s why he is often represented holding an axe. There is a marker in a castle in Georgia that says his bones are buried there, but (again) tradition says that Helena, the mother of Constantine, had his remains split between Padua in Italy and Trier in Germany, and that’s where we some him.

As with most relics like this, I’m not sure if these are really his bones, but the place felt sacred to me. His remains are in a crypt in the church, and it was one of the most beautiful I’ve been in. It is dark and lonely and has a kind of mysterious beauty about it.

We were also happy to see that the Abbey of St Matthias is on one of the German Ways of St James. I felt connected to the many pilgrims who have been through there. Imagine, if you hiked from Trier to Santiago (as many pilgrims have) it would be at least 1,195 miles. That makes our planned Camino of 500 miles seem like nothing. As always, I’m inspired by the devotion of those pilgrims who have gone before us.

On our way out of Trier we drove by the church of St Paul, which is the oldest Christian church in Germany, and the Porta Nigra, an awesome Roman gate.

Ian got carsick on the way home and threw up.

We spent the evening packing and getting ready for our journey to Switzerland tomorrow.

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La Gran Aventura Day 98: Heidelberg

Monday, March 19, 2024

This morning we had a relaxing morning, and then after an early lunch we headed out to see Heidelberg -- one of Germany’s most picturesque towns.

I had seen that Heidelberg had a couple of nice churches and an old ruined castle, and our plan was just to and check things out.

It’s amazing -- way more beautiful than even the pictures make it look. The castle, originally built in the 1200s and 1300s and then destroyed by war and fire from lightning strikes in the 1600s and 1700s. By the 1800s, it was abandoned and in ruins. But then the romantics started to love it as it was, and it was preserved and painted a bunch of times. Victor Hugo and Mark Twain both visited and loved this place. Twain wrote:

A ruin must be rightly situated, to be effective. This one could not have been better placed. It stands upon a commanding elevation, it is buried in green woods, there is no level ground about it, but, on the contrary, there are wooded terraces upon terraces, and one looks down through shining leaves into profound chasms and abysses where twilight reigns and the sun cannot intrude. Nature knows how to garnish a ruin to get the best effect. One of these old towers is split down the middle, and one half has tumbled aside. It tumbled in such a way as to establish itself in a picturesque attitude. Then all it lacked was a fitting drapery, and Nature has furnished that; she has robed the rugged mass in flowers and verdure, and made it a charm to the eye. The standing half exposes its arched and cavernous rooms to you, like open, toothless mouths; there, too, the vines and flowers have done their work of grace. The rear portion of the tower has not been neglected, either, but is clothed with a clinging garment of polished ivy which hides the wounds and stains of time. Even the top is not left bare, but is crowned with a flourishing group of trees & shrubs. Misfortune has done for this old tower what it has done for the human character sometimes – improved it.

I’m so glad we got to visit this beautiful old town. The castle really did stir us. I would love to come back someday.

Later, we had a nice family home evening with Dasha and the kids, and then late-night seminary lesson in which we discussed doing things “with full purpose of heart.” I love having these deep discussions with the kids. They are really wise.

And finally, a couple of administrative notes: we got confirmation that the Swiss temple housing is available, so we are on for the Switzerland and Italy portions of this trip. They will definitely be a whirlwind for us. And Ian’s asthma medicine is running out, so tomorrow we will go and find some. Between Veroniek’s cats and Dasha’s dog, he has really been struggling lately.

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La Gran Aventura Day 97: Church in the military ward

Sunday, March 17, 2024

This morning we went to church. Dasha and Andrew attend a military ward here in Kaiserslautern -- so it’s in English.  And it’s huge. There were probably 200 people or more in sacrament meeting, and it felt like 75% of them were primary kids.

Sacrament meeting was pretty ... lively with so many kids. It was a bit difficult to focus.

And then there was primary. Which was totally crazy and absolutely awesome.

The women had a special relief society meeting, so the men were in charge of primary. I went in to hang out with River and see if they needed any help. In singing time there were about 5 guys in charge of what looked like 100 kids. It was a lot of kid energy, and I was impressed at how these good military brothers worked with the kids with such gentleness.

After singing time it was time for class. I went in with River and the sunbeams. There were three of us men in there, and everything was going well until one kid said they needed to go to the bathroom, and then ALL of the kids needed to go. So we implemented operation potty stop. One brother stayed down in the hall by the classroom with the door open. I took the boys and another brother took the girls. We marched them all down to the potty and we stayed in the hallway so we could all three see each other. And we kept the bathroom doors open so we can be in earshot of the kids.

It was all very comical, and we only had two runners -- River was one of them. Thankfully, class ended well, and we got the kids all back to their parents.

After church we had lunch, and then I took a nice nap.

Then it was dinner, and after cleanup Betty and Dasha and I had another great chat.

One of the highlights was talking about the point of this trip -- and the point of pilgrimage or sacred travel in general. I think we do it for at least a few reasons.

  1. I think that the only way to be able to recognize beautiful things is to see them. And it’s just not the same to see a picture. I love being with my kids in beautiful places and having them experience that stirring.

  1. Similarly, I think there is something powerful in being in sacred places. If you go to one temple, you feel something special. If you go to a number of temples in a variety of places you come to recognize that feeling and you come to see that it can show up in a variety of places.

  1. Finally, and perhaps most importantly, sacred travel helps us to know that we are not alone in our faith. We live in a small community in rural Michigan. We have an amazing congregation at church, but it’s been amazing for our kids to see that in Utah, Arizona, Paris, London, Holland, Germany, Switzerland, Italy, and Spain there are other great members. It’s faith-affirming and helps us feel a part of something grand.

  1. Finally, being in places that are sacred in different traditions helps us to recognize our common humanity. We are all spiritual beings, and there is a part in all of us that responds to the divine. One of the added benefits of being on pilgrimage in Europe is that our kids get to be in sacred spaces that are hundreds and even thousands of years older than anything they could see in the US.

Tonight before bed we had a seminary lesson. It was a special one today. We watched the second episode of the series A Marvelous Work. It’s about evidence for the veracity of The Book of Mormon. I love that book, and I love gaining insight into the evidence for its authenticity. The more I learn the more convinced I am that it comes from God.

La Gran Aventura Day 96: The Frankfurt Temple

Saturday, March 16, 2024

This morning I woke up and had one of those moments where it becomes very clear that I need to plan out the next stage of this journey. It’s weird because days will go by in which I have no idea what we are going to do next, and then I reach a point where I know I have got to get moving. Today was one of those days. I figured out that we can take the train to the Swiss temple, hopefully stay in temple housing, and then move on to Vicenza, Italy and then to Rome. And from Rome we can FLY to Barcelona. I found airline tickets for just about $50 per person, so we are in business. It is a huge relief.

Today we visited the Frankfurt temple, which is not actually in Frankfurt, but outside of town -- not far from Sami and Cinthia’s house. It’s a beautiful temple. They all are. Sami and the kids and I went in and did baptisms. Cinthia was working the baptistry, so we got to see her there. Betty stayed outside with River.

When we were done, Betty wanted to go inside the temple -- as she has done in other places -- just to see the baptistry and to feel the spirit of the temple. The problem was that the people working the desk did not speak English and we don’t speak German. So we took Sami with us to try to explain, but they just weren’t understanding what we wanted to do. At first they thought that Betty was a non-member (she had forgotten her recommend). Then they thought she wanted to bring River into the temple. Finally, they got a member of the temple presidency to come out. We explained the situation, and he graciously offered to take us down himself. By this time the baptistry was empty. Betty was able to take some time alone, and I chatted with the president about our trip. The he said: “Do you want to see the oxen?” Of course we did, so he took us down an elevator and through a maintenance hall and then opened a door and we were there at the base of the font -- eye level with the oxen. It was awesome. I’ve always wanted to come down and see them up close, and here in Frankfurt I was able to do it. It was totally unforgettable, and I’m so grateful we had the opportunity.

Back at the house we had some delicious lunch, and then it was time to say goodbye. It was such a great stay with Sami and Cinthia and their kids. We would love to come back and spend more time.

On the way home the kids and I had a great discussion about what it means for something to be beautiful. I thought they were really insightful as they touched on what to me are the main elements of beauty.

  1. Beautiful things strike or stir or move us on an emotional level. It’s very often difficult to put into words specifically why something is beautiful, but we know beauty when we see it because we feel it in our heart, chest, throat, or stomach.

  1. Beautiful things point us towards higher or heavenly things. They help us orient towards the divine. In this way the beautiful is different from the attractive, or the pretty, or the desirable. It doesn't mean that all beautiful things are churchy or even spiritual, but they elevate our minds.

  1. Beauty depends on an interaction between an object and a viewer. It’s not that the object alone is beautiful. Nor is it the case that beauty is solely in the eye of the beholder. Beauty is a relationship between a beautiful object and a person capable of sensing that beauty -- both of feeling the stirring and of being oriented towards the divine by it.
    I feel like the older I get the more capable I am getting and recognizing the stirring feelings caused by beautiful things, and also the more capable I am of being pointed to God by them.
    It was a good chat.
    In the evening we got back with Dasha and the kids, and we had a really nice evening. Betty and Dasha and I had another great conversation about this trip, about living in Europe, about living the military lifestyle, and about raising kids. We talked about how each person’s experience is unique, and how God will help us to take advantage of our circumstances to raise our kids. Everyone’s situations are so totally unique, but if we are focused on raising our kids well, we will find the opportunities to help them grow, regardless of our circumstances.
    We also had a good talk about being led. I think it’s such a blessing and a challenge to just allow ourselves to be led -- one step at a time. As I was going to bed tonight, I had the words of Lead Kindly Light in my head.

Lead kindly light, amid the encircling gloom.

Lead thou me on.

The night is dark, and I am far from home.

Lead thou me on.

Keep thou my feet, I do not ask to see the distant scene.

One step enough for me.

That’s my theme song for this trip.

Full photos and videos of today

La Gran Aventura Day 95: Sami and Cinthia

Friday, March 15, 2024

Ian is really struggling with his allergies right now. Veroniek had two cats, and Dasha and Andrew have a dog. He had a tough night last night. His breathing is just not good. I hope we can help him get a bit sorted today.

Around lunchtime we drove up (in Andrew and Dasha’s van) to a town just outside of Frankfurt where our friends Sami López and Cinthia Peñarrubia live. I served with both of them in Spain when I was a missionary there. They are from the same part of Spain, and married just after their missions ended. Sami served as a very young stake president in Alicante, and now he works for the church here in Frankfurt -- which is headquarters for the church in Central Europe. They have two older teenage boys and a darling little girl.

When we got there we had lunch. It was a hodgepodge of German foods that they like. Potato pancake thingies and bratwurst and salad and apple soda.

After that we drove over to the town of Bad Homburg, which has a couple of beautiful churches a an old town with houses that date back to at least the 1500s. It was just a perfect little town.

After that, we drove over to the stake center (next to the temple) where there was a stake youth dance going on. Our kids were a little nervous and a little excited, and and ended up being more than a little disappointed. The attendance was not great, and the atmosphere wasn’t quite right. But I’m proud of them for giving it a shot.

In the night we had dinner and then the kids went upstairs to watch a movie while the adults just sat around the table and visited. We remembered time in the mission together, and we shared stories of some of the things we’ve been up to since then. I was so happy for Betty to get to know these dear friends and for them to get to know her. She and Cinthia really seem to have clicked. I’m so happy. It wasn’t til around 1am that we decided to call it quits for the night.

The whole day brought to mind the scripture that describes when Alma and the sons of Mosiah meet up after so many years apart:

Alma did rejoice exceedingly to see his brethren; and what added more to his joy, they were still his brethren in the Lord (Alma 17:2).

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La Gran Aventura Day 94: Vianen, ND to Kaiserslautern, Germany

Thursday, March 14, 2024

I think I’ve learned my lesson about early morning trains. Today’s didn’t leave until 11:04am, and because we are now back in the EU, we didn’t have to go through a bunch of security. So the morning was pretty chill, and the kids are getting great at packing up their stuff.

We’ve been on the train for about an hour now, and I’ve been doing some reading. I’m working my way through Bashō’s great essay The Narrow Road to the Far North. I feel really connected to him. So much of it reads like: We went to this shrine, we saw this old sword or piece of armor. We prayed with these people. This is the place where some battle took place. I was too busy to write poetry today, or too tired, or too distracted. But occasionally, there are moments of brilliance.

That’s what this trip is like for us. We get on a train, we visit a place. We might feel tired or annoyed about something. I might not have time to read or write or edit photos like I wish. But as I look back, the highlights stand out so brightly.

One of those highlights was seeing Dasha and her kids today. To find family here, in the middle of Europe. It’s amazing. Dasha is so kind and warm. It’s exactly what we needed at this stage of the trip.

We are now in Kaiserslautern on military base with them, and we will be here for a few days. I’m looking forward to it.

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La Gran Aventura Day 93: The Hague Temple

Wednesday, March 13, 2024

Today we took a little trip out to see The Hague, Holland temple. It’s just a bus ride and a 35min train ride from Veroniek’s place in Vianen. As has been our usual custom, we slept in a bit and got out of the house around 11am.

While I was on the train, I read from Elder Cook’s most recent general conference talk in which he reminded us that when the pioneers were preparing to cross the plains, Brigham Young received a revelation in which the Lord told the saints that they needed to look out for those in need, keep the commandments, fill their hearts with gratitude, and pray that their hearts would be full of joy. I think those are great guidelines for anyone going on a journey and for any family, frankly.

Here is a link to his talk: https://www.churchofjesuschrist.org/study/general-conference/2023/10/44cook?lang=eng

It was kind of a gray day. Not really raining and not super cold, but not totally dry and certainly not warm. It’s sad that this temple is currently closed, but there is just no helping that. We were grateful to be able to see it and to take some pictures. It’s a beautiful temple. Not too big, but with a unique style of architecture. My favorite element is a little bridge with fountains on the side that take you up to the front doors.

Not far from the temple there is also a beautiful old windmill. We walked right past it on our way up there. I’m glad we got to see it.

The evening was really relaxed. We had delicious fried Dutch foods for dinner. Cheesy snacks, croquettes, chicken nuggets and fries. And we washed it all down with our favorite Dutch treat: a black current soda called Cassis.

Then we just watched Ultimate Beastmaster on Netflix until bedtime.

Oh, and I should mention we listened to the BYU basketball game on the radio. They won in the first round of the BIG 12 tournament against UCF. It’s been such an awesome season. These guys are so fun to watch.

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La Gran Aventura Day 92: Amsterdam and the Rijksmuseum

Tuesday, March 12, 2024

This morning we slept in quite a bit. Everyone is tired. It was kind of a restless night. Ian woke up with terrible asthma. Betty had a nightmare and isn’t feeling well. I was going to take just the bigger kids to see Amsterdam and the Rijksmuseum so Betty could rest, but then Betty decided to come. Veroniek made a delicious lunch for us. Sandwiches and veggies. She has been a wonderful host.

The trip to Amsterdam includes about a half mile walk to the bus station, a 20 min bus to Utrecht Centraal train station, and 45 min train to Amsterdam. Fortunately for us, the ticket machine on the bus was broken, so we got a free ride.

At the train station we were in a big hurry to catch our train. Alicia told me it was a bad idea to rush, but I didn’t listen to her. Turns out she was right because instead of getting us on the train to Amsterdam, I got us on the train to Amersfoort. That was dumb and lost us just about a half hour or 45 min.

Thankfully there was another direct train from Amersfoort to Amsterdam. From there it was a tram ride to the Rijksmuseum.

This museum is not overly huge, but it has some real gems. In particular, it’s got a ton of Rembrandt, who is probably my favorite artist that I know almost nothing about. It was great to get to know him better here. Of course the piece de resistance is The Night Watch, but there were so many other good ones. I love his self-portraits. This museum also has three Vermeer’s and a famous self-portrait of Van Gogh.

Unfortunately, the kids and Betty were totally wiped out. I had figured that with a total day of rest Monday and pretty light day of travel Tuesday they would have more energy, but they were just sacked. After the Rembrandt and Vermeer stuff we knew it was time to get home, but before that we wanted to see the Van Gogh. Betty was asking me why Van Gogh is such a big deal, so I showed her and the kids this clip, which describes it better than I ever could.

After that the museum was ready to close, so we headed back it was a beautiful walk through the city. It’s definitely got a unique personality. I loved it. Our final stop was the Anne Frank house. Alicia read her diary this past year in school, so it was cool for her to see the house.

Walking from there to the train station we had a good chat about sacred space. What makes a place sacred? I taught the kids a bit about what Mircea Eliade writes in The Sacred and the Profane.

The regular old everyday world is what he calls profane space. It’s like a sheet that spreads out in all directions. But every once in a while, something divine pokes through that sheet and opens up a door to the spiritual. Where that tear in the fabric takes place, that’s what we call sacred space. Very often we build a church or monument there. And often the divine is manifest in the midst of tragedy. That’s why places like the beaches of Normandy or the Anne Frank house are sacred today.

At least, that’s one way to think of it.

This was a good day.

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